May 30, 2010

Hari ni aku pasang bateri baru sendiri, 30 Mei 2010

Setelah balik dari Kuala Tahan, semalam, pagi tadi (Ahad) bila nak start motor dah tak boleh, beberapa kali mencuba, memang tak dapat dah, (try lebih 5 kali, dah bunyi pelik - mungkin alternator takut rosak).

Aku  memberanikan diri, tel Fuad dapatkan tips, akhirnya dapat pasang sendiri , bateri yg aku dah beli 2 minggu kot, dari Tg Sepat.

Bab ke-2 ni: Cara tukar bateri sendiri.

Antara tips panduan yg aku dibagitahu oleh pomen kedai (Fuad pun remind aku) adalah: 
1. Cara nak masukkan acid bateri tu - kena isi tegak, elak melimpah keluar.
2. Tanggalkan/buka kabel negatif dulu, kemudian baru yg positif.
3. Bila nak pasang pula, pasang kabel positif dulu, baru negatif.
4. Lepas isi acid, biar 30 minit - 1 jam.
5. Start then bawa pusing-pusing, biar bateri dicharge.

Suka saya menyambung Part 2:

Tengahari tadi saya buat satu per satu, dah sampai akhir, apabila enjin motor distart, Alhamdulillah, dengan sekali tekan (lembut) shj, ia terus mudah distart...

Mulai hari ni, saya akan tengok berapa tahun dapat pakai bateri baru kali ke-2 ni. Bateri pertama dulu, dapat pakai 2 tahun lebih kurang. Sebab tahun 2008, bulan 6 (Agaknya pihak Kawasaki dah pasang bateri sejak keluar production sebelum bulan Jun 2008 lagi).

Pengalaman saya yg agak susah sikit ialah:
1. masa nak tekan asid bateri nih ke dlm bateri- kerana kena tekan kuat ke dlm casing bateri, sebab lubang asid bateri disalut aluminium foil (Ingat: Jangan dikopek aluminium foil tu, nanti asid meleleh keluar, caranya tekan kuat)
- yg lain, semua senang shj, macam a,b, c...

Yg berbeza dengan bateri dulu hanyalah pada:

- spec yg ni, output 12 Ah (Yg dulu 10Ah) (Makna yg ni lebih power kata Fuad) 

- keluaran Taiwan (Yg dulu China)

Ok, selamat mencuba...

Adventure Trip bersama ArRaubi & the gang ke Kuala Tahan, 28hb Mei 2010

Bersama kawan-kawan ArRaubi dan wife, Dr. Shakirin dan wife, Lekuq dan wife, Rizal shr dan wife, Fuad, Jufri, Andika, Donn, Taja, Ams (azhar), Syed??, Abg Aziz dan 3 orang Raub, kami telah mengikuti jln lama melalui Raub, Jerantut, hingga ke Kuala Tahan.

Pergi hari Jumaat pagi, keluar rumah sebelum jam 7 pagi, RV di BHP Karak hi-way, sampai di Kuala Tahan jam 1.00pm.

Tidur semalam di Teresik Viem Motel, dan balik jam 12.00pm Sabtu(Check out Hotel) singgah di rumah Rizal shr untuk menyabit buah salak, dan balik KL petang tu...

Antara aktiviti menarik adalah:

- naik bot ke Kelah Sanctuary.

- naik bot rapids shooting ke Sungai Tembeling, berhenti di Nusa Camp.


Bab jumpa kawan-kawan baru, antaranya:

- berborak dengan Abg Labib, seorang guru sekolah di Cheras, KL - seorang yg penuh berani, adventurous sekali, dan banyak pengalaman menarik, dan rupanya dia turut membaca blog saya, jika ada faedah kpd orang lain, Alhamdulilah...

- berjumpa dengan Abg Abd. Aziz, telah bersara dari Telekom, dan telah pakai 7 buah motor besar. Sekarang bawa motor Honda CB1000 cc.

- berborak dengan Taja, seorang pegawai Tentera ATM, bekas lulusan UIA, dlm bidang Undang-undang, rupanya kawan baik kpd En. Gunawan, kawan PTD aku, jiran di Presint 9, Putrajaya, Rakan RP (Rakan Pembimbing JPM)...cuma dia dari Batch 96 (Aku batch 95).

- berborak dengan Dr. Shakirin, seorang Dr di Kapar, Kelang dan wife nya yg sgt energetic orangnya...

http://er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=2790&mforum=er6

May 22, 2010

Ada yg kata minyak RON 95 tak bagus utk motor kita, ya ke?

ni ada korek dari net sket..

http://www.er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=1291&mforum=er6


What's RON?

With the recent Government's intention to hike petrol prices based on RON ratings, with RON95 at RM 1.75 and RON97 at RM 2.00, what exactly is RON ratings anyway? Well... this article is dedicated to satisfy your curiousity and quench your thirst for knowledge toward this RON thingy..

So what is RON? He's definitely not your next-door neighbour. What does the RON number mean in regard to petrol?

Unleaded fuels carry a RON (Research Octane Number) rating. Put simply, RON determines petrol’s ‘anti-knock’ quality or resistance to pre-ignition; or if you want to put in another way, the Octane Number denotes its resistance to detonation.

If you run your vehicle on low octane petrol you might notice a ‘knocking’, ‘rattling’, or ‘pinging’ sound (as it’s often called), which means the fuel is detonating instead of burning smoothly. This is not only a waste of energy, but it can also damage your engine in the long run. Burning is the desired effect of any internal combustion engine (not an explosion per se).





Fuel with a higher octane number suitable for your vehicle’s engine will eliminate knocking. Older cars that were designed to run on a lower RON fuel can also benefit from a higher RON, because the older the car and the higher the kilometres, means the engine will have a greater propensity to knock. This is mainly caused by a build-up of contaminants and carbon deposits which, when hot, can cause pre-ignition.

Rotary engines suffered from this too. As carbon deposits build up on the three apex seals of each rotor, the deposits get so hot, they glow orange with heat and then bang…detonation!

If you’ve ever seen an apex seal with what looks like burnt, corroded and ‘blown’ corners, you’ll know why. So in effect, a higher RON fuel when used in these situations will have a much higher threshold to detonate, therefore reducing that nasty characteristic of detonation.

98 RON is promoted as providing excellent fuel economy. It has low levels of benzene, sulphur and lower aromatics: its sulphur content is 10 times lower than the national standard for unleaded fuels.

For performance cars, 98 RON go-go juice is the norm. But does a car that is designed to run on 95 RON fuel run better on 98 RON fuel? Some swear by it, but from what I have seen, I have no evidence to sustain that theory. Sure, you may get better mileage, but I am skeptical that we would see measurably positive results on the dyno. However, there are certainly exceptions to any rule, and there are just so many variables to consider it’s not worth turning the discussion into argument.

The basic principles of internal combustion technology in cars has changed little; where things have changed however is in programming and in the sophisticated fuel management systems (such as knock sensors) of modern cars.

Knock Sensors

Some engines are fitted with a device called a knock sensor. Regardless of whether your vehicle has a knock sensor or multiple knock sensors, if it has high mileage, a higher RON fuel would be the most mechanically sympathetic thing to do. Why is that?

You see the knock sensors in your engine (if equipped) have a job to do. They protect your engine from knock by retarding timing; but here is the thing - your car ‘has’ to knock first before the knock sensors can do their job! This is not a good start in the first place. When an engine ‘knocks’ the engine temperature soars, and with most modern engines using an all alloy block, heat is bad… very bad.

Older engine blocks were commonly made from iron, and iron has a much higher melting temperature (at around 1,500 degrees centigrade) whereas an alloy block (we’re generalising here) melts at around half that temperature (being approximately 800 degrees centigrade).

Having first-hand experience with race engines that run an engine management system like a MOTEC tuned for a race fuel like ELF W.L.F (World Rally Fuel) at 102 RON ( the FIA limits for racing fuel is 102 octane), I’ve seen an engine ‘melt’ internally after just getting a ‘whiff’ of 98 RON when the engine was tuned for 102. Temps went through the roof and the engine was a throw-away proposition. This gets pretty expensive, let me tell you.




Of course this doesn’t happen anywhere near as dramatically with passenger cars built for consumer use, and most race engines don’t employ knock sensors to retard timing. It does however illustrate - at the higher end of the spectrum - just how important running the right RON for an engine can be and just how serious knock is.

So what does all this RON nonsense mean to the average motorist? Does it give you more power like many people suggest? Can you really ‘feel’ that extra power via the driver’s seat? Does a higher RON fuel equal better fuel consumption? The answer to these questions is somewhere between “maybe” and “yes”, but it depends a lot on your car, its state of tune, and how you drive.

So what do you next time you find yourself at the petrol pump?

My advice is reach for the better stuff. Not only are you “spreading the love” to your engine, but you will likely see better mileage and you will be doing your bit for the environment. On the whole, the higher the RON, the cleaner the emissions.

Till next time, Happy and safe motoring.


Sourced: TheMotorReport.Com

p/s: tapi awat rasa mcm x smooth ha? hahah

May 19, 2010

Kedai Lau, Tg Sepat

Semalam cuti sebab kereta rosak.

Di sebelah petang (selepas kereta dibaiki di Bengkel) naik kereta berpandukan GPS dan Tel. aku akhirnya berjaya sampai di Kedai En. Lau, di Tg. Sepat yg terkenal dengan barang motor lebih murah. Jarak 1 hala = 60 km dari Putrajaya.

Hari hujan, namun walaupun kedai dah ditutup awal, En. Lau masih tunggu aku sampai sekitar jam 6.30 petang. Aku beli banyak juga:
- Bateri : RM120 (Kat Kawa RM650)
- Cover motor : RM20 je (ArRaubi pernah beli RM50 kot)
- Minyak 4T Sikolene : RM26 x 2 = RM52
- Plug : RM45 x 2 = RM90 (Kat luar RM 100 lebih 1 shj)
- Oil filter : RM35 (Sekarang dah naik RM51 kot)
- Motul chain lube : RM40 (kat luar aku beli dulu RM60)
- Sikolene spray : RM28 kot (lupa dah)(kat luar rasanye 40an)
TOTAL: RM385

rasanya BERBALOI NILAI PEMBELIAN AKU NI

2. Satu lagi, En Lau bagi explanantion byk perkara yg penting dari segi pemakaian alat-alat motor macam minyak yg sesuai,

- Cth 1: kalau pakai myk 10-30 memang rasa ringan, tapi tak boleh pakai lama, 1500 km dah kena tukar, sebab myk dah kurang performance, pakai 10-40, 20-50 berat sikit, tapi minyak jadi senyap

- kalau pakai 10-40 (yg dia recommend, paling sesuai), pakai:
i) setakat 3,000km kalau dlm bandar
ii) 5,000km - jarak jauh

- dia kata tak payah sambung banyak pada bateri, nanti tak power bateri tu


-dia ada jual Powerjet GPR, boleh adjust sendiri RM 1,000 klik http://www.intobikes.co.uk/products?st=mn&mn=0148&pt=0045

May 17, 2010

Ajal maut di tangan Tuhan

Sahabat semua bikers,

Lebih berhati-hatilah di jalan raya! Jika badan tak sihat, kepala pening, JANGANLAH meneruskan ride yg jauh yg banyak selikoh-selikoh tajam. Sebab pemanduan memerlukan konsentrasi/ alertness yg tinggi...sebab motor nih laju...mata tu kena sentiasa dijalan raya, tengok ada pasir tak, ada benda atas jalan, ada tak bebudak bermain kat tepi jalan, ada kereta motor masuk tak bagi isyarat, ada tak lembu kambing nak melintas, kadang-kadang ada anjing berlari melintas dan macam-macam lagi.

Jika ada seorang meletakkan komennya : riding ni sebagai widow maker, beringatlah....

Sekadar renungan buat mereka yg telah pergi meninggalkan kita...Berita Harian , mungkin kita esok lusa, itulah Takdir Tuhan namanya, kita hambaNya ....

http://www.bharian.com.my/bharian/articles/PresidenMeruBikersmaut/Article

May 3, 2010

Kalau bateri anda dah nak kaput...

Kawan-kawan saya bercerita kat Forum katanya:

1. Bateri nih jangka hayatnya 1 tahun, kalau lebih tu dikira BONUS la, itu bergantung kpd cara pemakaian pemandunya yg berhemah...

2. Kalau kaput bateri nanti, sila klik di sini utkl panduan anda...http://er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=2570&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&mforum=er6

3. Dan panduan dari Nasa pula di sini : http://er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=2570&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&mforum=er6

Maklumat Voltage Spec:


Brand: Yuasa
model: YTX12-BS
voltage : 12vdc 10Ah
charging method : normal 1.2A x 5-10h
quick 5A x 1h
price: mahal!!!