People have been asking me about this bike.

Ada orang pernah bertanya kepada saya tentang motor ER6N ni, antaranya yg saya petik di bawah adalah emel En. Zahrul kepada saya:
Nor Zahrul Hayzraai wrote to me
show details 12/14/10

Salam En Yusuff,

Saya terbaca mengenai your blog mengenai ER6N. Saya bercadang ingin beli sebiji motor ni. Memandangkan En Yusuff dah pakai motor ni lebih 2 tahun, saya harap n Yusuf tak keberatan menghulurkan sedikit pandangan mengenai motor ni dari segi kos maintenance dan kepuasan menunggang motor ni.

Saya ni baru nak belajar bawak motor > 500 cc. Dgn harganya yg berpatutan, saya ingat motor ni paling sesuai bg org "novice" mcm saya. Tp, kalau dapat pandangan yg lebih baik dari org yg dah ada cukup pengalaman mungkin lg baik.

Saya harap En Yusuf dapat memberikan sedikit pandangan :)

Terima Kasih.

Salam,

Zahrul, W.Melawati Reply Forward

Your message has been sent.

Reply from yusuff latif to Nor

show details 1:24 PM (1 minute ago)

Salam. Maaf sebab baru terbaca emel Zahrul ni. Kalau tanya saya, memang lah saya cukup puas hati dengan motor ER6n ni, pada harga yg taklah mahal macam motor besar yg lain. Walau bagaimanapun, motor ni dianggap motor budget bike di mana peralatan assessories yg dipasang padanya , sekadar cukup dan asas sahaja. Maksud saya dari segi assessories seperti brake system dan lain-lain. Contoh mudah brake pada ER6N ni yang basic sahaja, performance nya tak lah baik sangat. Jadi jika kita nak improve performance kita kena tukar lah sistem brake dia kepada brand yang lebih baik dan mahal. Contohnya saya sendiri dah tukar brake line dia kepada racing spec - brand Hel, orang panggil stell braided hose, 2 line untuk brake depan dan 1 line untuk brake belakang , harganya 3 line x RM200 = RM600. Kesannya, Braking performance improve by 100 % (pada jangkaan saya shj) jadi bila brake rasa lebih mencengkam dan cepat responsen ya, dari segi membrek, dan lepas brek. Itu salah satu contoh yg saya rasa mudah diberi.

Dari segi sistem lain pun begitu juga, sebab itu, lama kelamaan , orang yg nak rasa performance yg up sikit lagi, akan tukar upgrade seperti pada tayar depan belakang, absorber, exhaust, air filter, dan lain-lain.

Tapi dari segi harga, motor nih saya rasa paling murah di pasaran. Sebabnya, ia dipasang di Malaysia dan dianggap motor CKD - jadi tax nya taklah tinggi, menjadikan harganya sangat murah berbanding motor besar yg lain.

Dari segi kos maintenance setakat pakai motor nih dah 2 tahun, sangat minimal. Kos servis sahaja lah, minyak enjin setiap 3,000 km, (in line 2) kena pakai 2 botol, (sebotol RM25 - 30) plug setiap 6,000 km (dalam RM48). Kos beli barang assessories terpulang kepada diri masing-masing sebab safety sangat penting seperti kasut boot, jaket motor, dll.

Dari segi kepuasan pula, ada 2 perkara saya nak cakap:

1) Motor ni horsepower nya sekitar 70 hp. Saya rasa memang power dan pick up. Top speed boleh lebih 200 km/j. senang-senang je. (Cuma berani atau tidak je)(Kalau nak bawa laju kena pasang windshield untuk tolak tolakan angin dari depan) Dari segi pick up memang kuat, sebab dia in line 2, mengalahkan motor in line 4 jika di traffic light.

2) Kepuasan dari segi ber club. Kita ada Kelab FERNO - Friends Among ER6 Owners, dan sila cari forum nya di http://er6.my-forums.net/index.php?sid=f62256bb93e95e8d620997ea3fc2bafc&mforum=er6

di mana banyak perbincangan fasal motor nih dan perjumpaan (TTS) dan rides dll.


Ok, sekian ringkas sahaja untu permulaan kata.

Yusuff, 0129143108.

Ride ke Kuala Kurau pada 11-12/12/2010

Semalam saya telah selamat pulang dari Ride ke Kuala Kurau.

Ride yang dirancang melibatkan beberapa kawan rapat FERNO tak berapa menjadi sebab ramai yg tak dapat turut serta atas  urusan lain dan kemalangan yang tidak dapat dielakkan, takdir ketentuan Ilahi.

Akhirnya saya dan Ustaz Syed Mokhtar berdua,  meluncur menebas angin ke Utara Perak, menuju Kuala Kurau namanya. Kawasan destinasi sangat cantik dengan jeram air dari gunung yg sejuk airnya dan cantik pemandangannya.

Kami tinggal di Chalet, kongsi berdua, murah je RM50 semalam.

Perjalanan :

- Berjumpa di Tol Jln Duta

- minum pagi di RNR Sg Buloh (dapat berita Bro Fuad jatuh).

- Singgah di Bidor, rumah ayah mertua dan jumpa anak - Aiman dan Amin yg cuti sekolah di Rumah Atok mereka.

- Mencari, menemani Abg Fuad yang down di Teluk Intan (Kasihan Bro, tapi syukur tuan badan selamat, cuma motor kena masuk wad).

- Tersesat ke Selatan (Sebab percayakan arah haluan yg salah besar diberi oleh seorang Bro India).

- Patah balik ke Utara - mencari Kg Gajah, Beruas, Terong, Taiping, Kuala Kurau.

- Perjalanan ke Kuala Gula - terpaksa ditunda next time atas faktor masa.

Gambar, video dan suasana di Kuala Kurau

Testing

Adakah boleh post dr hphone ni?

Published with Blogger-droid v1.6.4

Another review between ER6N and his Brother ER6F

Text by Janie Omorogbe

Kawasaki’s little ER-6n and ER-6f are urban twins, distinguished apart by one’s nakedness and the other’s stylish bodywork. There wasn’t an awful lot wrong with these bikes in the first place, but Kawasaki are keen to keep both updated and have tweaked them to suit the current economic climate.

Link ...http://www.dainese.com/us_en/daineseme/kAWASAKI_ER_6N_by_Janie_Omorogbe

Nak pasang DFC Dynojet for my ER6N?

Sebelum tu cuba baca dulu artikel dr Website nih:

1. http://www.redracingparts.com/en/english.htm#english/motorbikesmotorcycles/productsandcomponents/dynojetpowercommandersecuquickshifter.php

2. Speed and acceleration is 2 diff things http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_is_acceleration_different_from_speed

3. other links http://www.google.com.my/search?hl=en&safe=off&client=opera&hs=jpV&rls=en&q=dynojet+dfc+er6n&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

Ulang tayang review ER6N dari satu website

Sumber website :http://rmreview.com.my/2010-er-6n-a-best-naked-bike-performance/ 

The ER-6n gets a vestigial flyscreen around its headlight or instrument pod, but for the most part the fairing of this naked style .the clean, size-efficient engine delivers good fuel economy and also meets stringent emission regulations, thanks to its precise fuel-injection and a three-way catalyzer system. The key to the ER-6n’s slender size is its compact liquid-cooled, fuel-injected, DOHC 8-valve 649cc parallel-twin engine, which permits the use of a narrow, lightweight frame. Its fuel injection settings grant the engine plenty of bottom-end torque and smooth low-mid rpm response. Its coolant is routed to the cylinder and head through the engine cases, reducing the number of hoses and simplifying the cooling system.

The instrument cluster is uniquely stacked with a sharp design and easy layout from the analog speedometer to the multi-function LCD screen. The instrumentation features include a fuel gauge, bar-style digital tachometer, clock, odometer and dual trip meters. Besides the rubber coating on the footpegs, the passenger also benefits from the easy to reach aluminum grab rails — nothing like a relaxed passenger to allow the rider to fully enjoy the ER-6n’s friendly ergonomics and versatile cockpit.

Quite simply, this is a motorcycle that both novice and experienced riders can be at home on and equally comfortable employing its assets to the fullest, whether it be navigating urban environs or enjoying a weekend canyon run.


2010 ER-6N A BEST NAKED BIKE PERFORMANCE



2010 ER-6N FEATURES:-


• Liquid-cooled, DOHC, 8-valve fuel-injected twin cylinder delivers smooth, responsive performance, especially in the low to medium rpm range
• Excellent mid-range power, exceptional roll-on response and impressive passing performance make even commuter traffic enjoyable
• Silky smooth engine vibes via a 180° crankshaft-driven balancer shaft, which in turn drives the water pump
• Oil jets on the connecting rod big ends spray oil on the undersides of the pistons to aid cooling
• Lightweight plug-mounted ignition coils deliver a hot spark and save space
• Wide radiator offers plenty of cooling efficiency
• Coolant routing travels directly to the engine cases, then on to the cylinder and head through internal passages, which keeps external plumbing to a minimum
• Fine-tuned shift lever position is easy to use

• Fuel injection settings permit healthy bottom-end torque while letting the engine rev fast
• Sub-throttle valve equipped 38mm Keihin throttle bodies offer optimum performance and rideability
• Located behind the main throttle valves, the sub-throttles are controlled by the DFI® system ECU for a precise throttle response, similar to a constant-velocity carburetor
• Auto-fast idle system simplifies starting and helps ensure the catalyzer reaches optimum temperature quickly
• The lightweight fuel pump is mounted inside the fuel tank.

• Powerful twin-cylinder engine is the most compact in its category, which helps reduce the dimension of the entire motorcycle and allows use of a slim, minimalist frame
• Triangular setup of the crankshaft and transmission shafts makes the engine short front-to-back
• Transmission input shaft, output shaft and change drum are contained in a “cassette”-style package that allows a compact layout and eases transmission maintenance chores

• Semi-dry sump design reduces engine height
• Plated, linerless aluminum cylinders with a narrow cylinder pitch keep the engine light and slim

• Efficient fuel injection and a three-way catalyzer inside the exhaust produce very low emissions, able to pass the stringent Euro-III emission regulations
• Utilizes a compact and light 300-cell catalyzer unit
• Under-engine muffler placement improves mass centralization and the bike’s low center of gravity
• The exhaust pipe bend and under-engine muffler arrangement contribute to the ER-6n’s attractive styling

• Rubber upper-rear engine mounts decrease the vibration transferred to the rider through the seat
• Handlebar is rubber-mounted to lessen vibration transmitted through the handle grips
• Rider and passenger footpegs are rubber coated to further reduce vibration

• Frame has all the key ER-6n elements — slim, low, lightweight and compact design that is narrow at the knees and footpegs for rider comfort and control
• The strong, high-tensile steel trellis frame not only looks lightweight, it is — rivaling that of aluminum frames
• Balanced rigidity, achieved through extensive 3D analysis, translates directly into superb handling
• The frame, rear suspension and swingarm designs flow together with an integrated line running from the steering head to the rear hub
• Short front-to-back dimensions of the engine allow for a long swingarm and a short wheelbase combination that contributes to the light and nimble handling

• Swingarm stiffness adds balance to the frame’s rigidity — due primarily to the rubber engine mounts
• The D-shaped cross-section swingarm, stabilizer, chain adjuster design and elegant one-piece rider/passenger footpeg stays complement the ER-6n’s high-quality appearance

• Front and rear suspension settings match the frame and swingarm rigidity values for lighter, rider-friendly handling
• Shape of the 41mm fork lower ends around the axle shaft adds to the bike’s performance and high quality image

• An ideal handlebar, seat and footpeg relationship results in a comfortable and natural riding position suiting a wide range of riders
• Frame narrows just aft of the fuel tank enabling a slimmer seat, making the reach to the ground even easier
• The offset single-shock rear suspension layout with the battery located beside the shock instead of beneath it allows a lower seat height as well
• Low seat height and slim overall design make it easy to plant both feet firmly on the ground when stopped
• Aluminum passenger grips are positioned and shaped for easy grabbing by the passenger

• Angular, stacked dual headlight and shroud contribute to the ER-6n’s masculine image and features two-position lights
• Headlights can be adjusted behind the headlight cover
• Reinforcing the ER-6n’s masculine styling, the sharp, edgy radiator shrouds feature integrated front turn signals with clear lenses and orange bulbs and forward-leaning lines
• A flush-surface fuel cap and its sharp-edged motif give the tank a distinctive look
• The ER-6n’s compact front-to-rear appearance is enhanced by the short front cowl, short rear cowl with its LED tail light and shrouds that start behind the front fork
• Finishing out the bike’s aggressive image is a sharp tail cowl design featuring a slimmer rear mud flap and turn signals that can also function as hazard lights
• A long front fender keeps the water splashing to a minimum and its two-tone design matches the ER-6n’s light, compact theme
• An inner rear fender helps keep the underside of the tail cowl clean
• Storage options include four tie-down hooks for baggage or a spare helmet to be secured to the seat and a storage space under the seat with room for a U-lock or similar device

• Mirror design is a similar supersport style and offers an unparalleled rear view

• Dual 300mm front petal disc brakes with twin 27mm piston front brake calipers and a single 220mm rear petal disc deliver plenty of braking power
• Housed in a curved brake master cylinder reservoir , the front brake lever utilizes an optimized ball-joint and pivot location to deliver smooth actuation of its 14mm master cylinder piston

• Attractive six-spoke supersport-style wheels augment the bike’s light look while reducing unsprung weight

• Stacked instrument cluster has a sharp design and clean layout with an analog speedometer that uses white LED backlights for excellent visibility at night
• The multi-function LCD screen has amber backlighting and its features include a fuel gauge, bar-style digital tachometer, clock, odometer and dual trip meters
• Inner cover inside the front cowl provides a clean appearance in this area
• Handlebar mount design and curved shapes on the brake master cylinder reservoir and clutch lever contribute further to the ER-6n’s masculine appearance







2010 ER-6N SPECS TECHNICAL:-

Engine: Four-stroke, liquid-cooled, DOHC, four-valve per cylinder, parallel twin

Displacement: 649 cc

Bore x Stroke: 83.0 x 60.0 mm

Compression Ratio: 11.3:1

Cooling System: Liquid

Fuel System: Digital fuel injection with two 38mm Keihin throttle bodies

Ignition: Digital CDI

Transmission: Six-speed

Final Drive: O-Ring Chain

Frame Type: Semi-double cradle, high-tensile steel

Rake/Trail: 24.5 degrees/4.0 in.

Front Tire Size: 120/70-17

Rear Tire Size: 160/60-17

Wheelbase: 55.3 in.

Front Suspension / Wheel Travel: 41mm hydraulic telescopic fork / 4.7 in.

Rear Suspension / Wheel Travel: Single offset laydown shock with adjustable spring preload / 4.9 in.

Front Brakes: Dual 300mm Petal Disc with 2-Piston Caliper

Rear Brakes: Single 220mm Petal Disc with hydraulic caliper

Fuel Capacity: 4.1 gal.

Seat Height: 29.7 in.

Curb Weight: 441.0 lbs.

Overall Length: 82.7 in.

Overall Width: 29.9 in.

Overall Height: 43.3 in.

Color Choices: Metallic Flat Spark Black

Senarai modi by FERNO members

http://er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=1808&mforum=er6

Rupanye ada blog EMM1

Baca di sini >>http://xpdc1malaysia.blogspot.com/

Atau pasang DynoJet di Sunvay Cycle, PJ

Majalah motor , rasanye Motor Culture ada keluarkan iklan bagi alat ni, khas utk motor ER6N/F/Versys yg sama enjinnya. Harge RM990 tapi memang ketara ke bezanya sebelum dan selepas??

Tadi dah call Sunvay Cycle, Manager dia akan minta Mr Ah Hoi, telefon aku balik....explain kan...

Mr Ah Hoi ni is one of the EMM1 Concoy to London baru-baru ni...

Next step : Merancang nak tukar Hyper pro spring...

Bila semak balik post saya sebelum-sebelum nih, mencari apa lagi modification yg saya nak buat selepas nih, lalu saya terjumpalah yg ni - tukar hyperpro spring .

Mula-mula saya post 1 thread fasal ni (seperti di bawah) di forum FERNO, mengharapkan respon dari members, BUT sampai hari ni, rasanya dah lepas 10 hari, takde sesape pun yg reply lagi..

http://www.sportbikepro.com/cst_shopexd.asp?ID=10111

HyperPro Spring Kits:

In a perfect world the suspension of your motorbike would react differently every time. The top half of the spring would be supple and would react flexibly to absorb small bumps and irregularities instantly. As the spring compresses, it becomes more rigid so even large bumps and holes in a road surface will not cause the suspension to bottom out.
For cost-efficiency reasons, new motorbikes are equipped with linear springs. Compressing the top half of this type of spring takes just as much force as compressing the bottom half. The result is that the top of the spring is in fact too rigid and the bottom too supple.
Fortunately, this perfect world does exist. Hyperpro produces progressive springs whereby the top half is easily compressible and compression of the bottom half is much harder. This results in a perfect set-up for every situation. A number of benefits are mentioned below:

Improved braking distance
Whenever you apply the brakes, the pressure on the front wheel increases. Regular springs cause the bike to dive causing the brakes to become less effective. With progressive Hyperpro springs the bike takes less of a dive, the rate of resistance increases which results in an improved braking distance. Not only is this faster on the circuit, it is also safer on the public highway!

Improved motoring performance
Small bumps and irregularities in the road surface get absorbed immediately, large bumps or holes are intercepted by the more rigid part of the spring. This results in perfect harmony between control and comfort.

No resonance
A linear spring has a specific frequency and therefore, could resonate at that particular frequency. Resonance is not only very annoying it can also be dangerous. Progressive springs do not have a frequency so therefore never resonate; an obvious difference!

Always a perfect setup

Progressive springs always adjust themselves instantly to changing circumstances. If you carry a passenger on your motorbike, the spring should provide more resistance and this is certainly the case with progressive springs. Hyperpro progressive springs even respond to the amount of petrol left in your tank.
We believe in our product and therefore offer a lifetime warranty against breakage. Tests have proved that even after driving a million kilometres our progressive springs maintain the same characteristics.
Hyperpro progressive springs are available for almost all modern bikes as front kit, rear kit and combi kit. A combi kit consists of progressive springs: front and back, fork oil, stickers and a practical user guide. In addition to step-by-step installation instructions, this user guide provides useful tips for optimal adjustment of your bike springs.

Syoknya dapat pakai Hphone baru

Hphone Samsung Galaxy S - terbaru di pasaran....

Published with Blogger-droid v1.4.9

A new tyre from Michelin - Power pure

Ada kawan FERNO letakkan thread nih http://er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=2931&mforum=er6

Jaga-jaga, accident caused by "Tankslap"

Waduh, hati-hati Bang, sudah ramai yg tergolek disebabkan fenomena "TankSlap", =  satu keadaan tayar yg tiba-tiba jadi gila, ke kiri dan ke kanan, ke kiri dan ke kanan, menyebabkan kita terjatuh ke depan tak semena-mena akibat dari 1) jalan yg beralun, 2)posisi tayar terangkat dan tersentuh permukaan jalan dan mengamjal (bumping)...

Nanti saya letakkan video pendek :

1.  

Apa kebendenya "Slipper Clutch" tu?

Mengikut bahasa mudahnya = adalah alat yg dipasang pada motor yg membolehkan kita tak terasa enjin mengaum akibat perubahan gear tinggi ke rendah (Perubahan RPM ketara) especially bila kita cornering dan drop gears.

A slipper clutch (also known as a slider clutch or back-torque limiter) is a specialized clutch developed for performance oriented motorcycles to mitigate the effects of engine braking when riders decelerate as they enter corners.

They are designed to partially disengage or "slip" when the rear wheel tries to drive the engine faster than it would run under its own power. The engine braking forces in conventional clutches will normally be transmitted back along the drive chain causing the rear wheel to hop, chatter or lose traction. This is especially noted on larger displacement four-stroke engines, which have greater engine braking than their two-stroke or smaller displacement counterparts. Slipper clutches eliminate this extra loading on the rear suspension giving riders a more predictable ride and minimize the risk of over-reving the engine during downshifts. Slipper clutches can also prevent a catastrophic rear wheel lockup in case of engine seizure or transmission failure. Generally, the amount of force needed to disengage the clutch is adjustable to suit the application.

Klik lebih tengok gambar nye...di sini >>http://www.twinshack.co.uk/prods/88.html

Semalam saya naikkan balik fork depan

Dulu, saya turunkan 10mm fork depan apabila buat penukaran minyak fork dan pasang spacer (bearing).

Setelah pakai lebih kurang 2 bulan kot, saya naikkan balik ke asal, sebab keras sgt. saya tak suka kesannya....

Di samping itu, semalam juga saya:
- minta kedai ketatkan balik bateri yg saya pasang, longgar kelmarin, enjin tak nak start semalam.
-itu aje, tokey kedai tak berani perbetulkan double signal saya yg tak hidup dah...ini buat kat kedai lain nanti lah ..

Semalam saya start balik belajar Bhs Arab di KL

Nama cikgu, Ustaz Rahimi, dia pernah tinggal lebih 10 tahun di Mesir. Dan yg bagusnya, dia buat modul belajar Bhs Arab mengikuti kehendak saya iaitu memfokuskan tentang belajar bhs Arab Al Quran.

Saya ingat nak tambah lagi efektifnya belajar menerusi 1) Internet, 2) Facebook, 3) Alatan gajet - Quran Reader MP5, dll

Tentang kawan saya Cikgu Labib

Salam semua, semasa saya Ride motor ke Kuala Tahan, Pahang, saya ada berjumpa dengan kawan saya ni, dia seorang guru di Cheras, dan tinggal di Gombak, Pinggiran.

Kawan saya ni juga baru membeli sebuah motorsikal ER6N (4 bulan lalu) sama macam saya lah, kira kawan sepermotoran. Tapi, yg hebatnya kawan saya ni, dia banyak mengembara/melancong bersama isteri tersayang. Blog yg ditulis oleh isterinya pun saya cukup kagum, sebab banyak cerita, banyak gambar. Bila baca, macam kita pulak yg melancong (melancong secara maya, virtual).

Baru-baru nih, semalam kot, saya ada bercakap menerusi tel, dia tengah bersiap nak ke Borneo, Sabah dan Sarawak. Motor dia dah lama hantar , bayaran dengar khabor RM1,500. Beliau akan Ride sepanjang Sabah, Brunei, Sarawak sejauh 3, 400 km dengar nya. Saya doakan beliau selamat sepanjang perjalanan motornya. Dan balik nanti, saya harap beliau akan menulis fasal adventure ride ini, dengan gambar motor sekali, ya Cikgu Labib, nanti saya tunggu....http://zmah-ceritaku.blogspot.com/

Hari ni aku pasang bateri baru sendiri, 30 Mei 2010

Setelah balik dari Kuala Tahan, semalam, pagi tadi (Ahad) bila nak start motor dah tak boleh, beberapa kali mencuba, memang tak dapat dah, (try lebih 5 kali, dah bunyi pelik - mungkin alternator takut rosak).

Aku  memberanikan diri, tel Fuad dapatkan tips, akhirnya dapat pasang sendiri , bateri yg aku dah beli 2 minggu kot, dari Tg Sepat.

Bab ke-2 ni: Cara tukar bateri sendiri.

Antara tips panduan yg aku dibagitahu oleh pomen kedai (Fuad pun remind aku) adalah: 
1. Cara nak masukkan acid bateri tu - kena isi tegak, elak melimpah keluar.
2. Tanggalkan/buka kabel negatif dulu, kemudian baru yg positif.
3. Bila nak pasang pula, pasang kabel positif dulu, baru negatif.
4. Lepas isi acid, biar 30 minit - 1 jam.
5. Start then bawa pusing-pusing, biar bateri dicharge.

Suka saya menyambung Part 2:

Tengahari tadi saya buat satu per satu, dah sampai akhir, apabila enjin motor distart, Alhamdulillah, dengan sekali tekan (lembut) shj, ia terus mudah distart...

Mulai hari ni, saya akan tengok berapa tahun dapat pakai bateri baru kali ke-2 ni. Bateri pertama dulu, dapat pakai 2 tahun lebih kurang. Sebab tahun 2008, bulan 6 (Agaknya pihak Kawasaki dah pasang bateri sejak keluar production sebelum bulan Jun 2008 lagi).

Pengalaman saya yg agak susah sikit ialah:
1. masa nak tekan asid bateri nih ke dlm bateri- kerana kena tekan kuat ke dlm casing bateri, sebab lubang asid bateri disalut aluminium foil (Ingat: Jangan dikopek aluminium foil tu, nanti asid meleleh keluar, caranya tekan kuat)
- yg lain, semua senang shj, macam a,b, c...

Yg berbeza dengan bateri dulu hanyalah pada:

- spec yg ni, output 12 Ah (Yg dulu 10Ah) (Makna yg ni lebih power kata Fuad) 

- keluaran Taiwan (Yg dulu China)

Ok, selamat mencuba...

Adventure Trip bersama ArRaubi & the gang ke Kuala Tahan, 28hb Mei 2010

Bersama kawan-kawan ArRaubi dan wife, Dr. Shakirin dan wife, Lekuq dan wife, Rizal shr dan wife, Fuad, Jufri, Andika, Donn, Taja, Ams (azhar), Syed??, Abg Aziz dan 3 orang Raub, kami telah mengikuti jln lama melalui Raub, Jerantut, hingga ke Kuala Tahan.

Pergi hari Jumaat pagi, keluar rumah sebelum jam 7 pagi, RV di BHP Karak hi-way, sampai di Kuala Tahan jam 1.00pm.

Tidur semalam di Teresik Viem Motel, dan balik jam 12.00pm Sabtu(Check out Hotel) singgah di rumah Rizal shr untuk menyabit buah salak, dan balik KL petang tu...

Antara aktiviti menarik adalah:

- naik bot ke Kelah Sanctuary.

- naik bot rapids shooting ke Sungai Tembeling, berhenti di Nusa Camp.

Bab jumpa kawan-kawan baru, antaranya:

- berborak dengan Abg Labib, seorang guru sekolah di Cheras, KL - seorang yg penuh berani, adventurous sekali, dan banyak pengalaman menarik, dan rupanya dia turut membaca blog saya, jika ada faedah kpd orang lain, Alhamdulilah...

- berjumpa dengan Abg Abd. Aziz, telah bersara dari Telekom, dan telah pakai 7 buah motor besar. Sekarang bawa motor Honda CB1000 cc.

- berborak dengan Taja, seorang pegawai Tentera ATM, bekas lulusan UIA, dlm bidang Undang-undang, rupanya kawan baik kpd En. Gunawan, kawan PTD aku, jiran di Presint 9, Putrajaya, Rakan RP (Rakan Pembimbing JPM)...cuma dia dari Batch 96 (Aku batch 95).

- berborak dengan Dr. Shakirin, seorang Dr di Kapar, Kelang dan wife nya yg sgt energetic orangnya...

http://er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=2790&mforum=er6

Ada yg kata minyak RON 95 tak bagus utk motor kita, ya ke?

ni ada korek dari net sket..

http://www.er6.my-forums.net/viewtopic.php?t=1291&mforum=er6

What's RON?

With the recent Government's intention to hike petrol prices based on RON ratings, with RON95 at RM 1.75 and RON97 at RM 2.00, what exactly is RON ratings anyway? Well... this article is dedicated to satisfy your curiousity and quench your thirst for knowledge toward this RON thingy..

So what is RON? He's definitely not your next-door neighbour. What does the RON number mean in regard to petrol?

Unleaded fuels carry a RON (Research Octane Number) rating. Put simply, RON determines petrol’s ‘anti-knock’ quality or resistance to pre-ignition; or if you want to put in another way, the Octane Number denotes its resistance to detonation.

If you run your vehicle on low octane petrol you might notice a ‘knocking’, ‘rattling’, or ‘pinging’ sound (as it’s often called), which means the fuel is detonating instead of burning smoothly. This is not only a waste of energy, but it can also damage your engine in the long run. Burning is the desired effect of any internal combustion engine (not an explosion per se).





Fuel with a higher octane number suitable for your vehicle’s engine will eliminate knocking. Older cars that were designed to run on a lower RON fuel can also benefit from a higher RON, because the older the car and the higher the kilometres, means the engine will have a greater propensity to knock. This is mainly caused by a build-up of contaminants and carbon deposits which, when hot, can cause pre-ignition.

Rotary engines suffered from this too. As carbon deposits build up on the three apex seals of each rotor, the deposits get so hot, they glow orange with heat and then bang…detonation!

If you’ve ever seen an apex seal with what looks like burnt, corroded and ‘blown’ corners, you’ll know why. So in effect, a higher RON fuel when used in these situations will have a much higher threshold to detonate, therefore reducing that nasty characteristic of detonation.

98 RON is promoted as providing excellent fuel economy. It has low levels of benzene, sulphur and lower aromatics: its sulphur content is 10 times lower than the national standard for unleaded fuels.

For performance cars, 98 RON go-go juice is the norm. But does a car that is designed to run on 95 RON fuel run better on 98 RON fuel? Some swear by it, but from what I have seen, I have no evidence to sustain that theory. Sure, you may get better mileage, but I am skeptical that we would see measurably positive results on the dyno. However, there are certainly exceptions to any rule, and there are just so many variables to consider it’s not worth turning the discussion into argument.

The basic principles of internal combustion technology in cars has changed little; where things have changed however is in programming and in the sophisticated fuel management systems (such as knock sensors) of modern cars.

Knock Sensors

Some engines are fitted with a device called a knock sensor. Regardless of whether your vehicle has a knock sensor or multiple knock sensors, if it has high mileage, a higher RON fuel would be the most mechanically sympathetic thing to do. Why is that?

You see the knock sensors in your engine (if equipped) have a job to do. They protect your engine from knock by retarding timing; but here is the thing - your car ‘has’ to knock first before the knock sensors can do their job! This is not a good start in the first place. When an engine ‘knocks’ the engine temperature soars, and with most modern engines using an all alloy block, heat is bad… very bad.

Older engine blocks were commonly made from iron, and iron has a much higher melting temperature (at around 1,500 degrees centigrade) whereas an alloy block (we’re generalising here) melts at around half that temperature (being approximately 800 degrees centigrade).

Having first-hand experience with race engines that run an engine management system like a MOTEC tuned for a race fuel like ELF W.L.F (World Rally Fuel) at 102 RON ( the FIA limits for racing fuel is 102 octane), I’ve seen an engine ‘melt’ internally after just getting a ‘whiff’ of 98 RON when the engine was tuned for 102. Temps went through the roof and the engine was a throw-away proposition. This gets pretty expensive, let me tell you.




Of course this doesn’t happen anywhere near as dramatically with passenger cars built for consumer use, and most race engines don’t employ knock sensors to retard timing. It does however illustrate - at the higher end of the spectrum - just how important running the right RON for an engine can be and just how serious knock is.

So what does all this RON nonsense mean to the average motorist? Does it give you more power like many people suggest? Can you really ‘feel’ that extra power via the driver’s seat? Does a higher RON fuel equal better fuel consumption? The answer to these questions is somewhere between “maybe” and “yes”, but it depends a lot on your car, its state of tune, and how you drive.

So what do you next time you find yourself at the petrol pump?

My advice is reach for the better stuff. Not only are you “spreading the love” to your engine, but you will likely see better mileage and you will be doing your bit for the environment. On the whole, the higher the RON, the cleaner the emissions.

Till next time, Happy and safe motoring.


Sourced: TheMotorReport.Com

p/s: tapi awat rasa mcm x smooth ha? hahah